Day 1: Goodby Virgin, Hello Split
This morning we said goodbye to the Resilient Lady. (Picture us being dragged off the ship, clinging to our black wristbands, pleading to stay.) Our private car, one last glorious Mega Rockstar perk, was waiting at the port to take us to the Athens airport. After getting in some terminal walking for that step count, we boarded a two-hour flight to Split, Croatia.
Let me just say: the Split airport was a pleasant surprise. Imagine a sleek, modern terminal wrapped in palm trees and blooming flowers, with ocean views so pretty they almost made you forget you just flew in on a budget airline, and had to carry your suitcase down the stairs to deplane.


An Uber driver met us outside for the 30-minute drive to our Airbnb near the port. The scenery was all rolling hills, olive groves, and sparkling sea views.
The Airbnb was incredibly charming. The manager gave us a warm welcome and a quick tour. Turns out it’s the winter home of a local artist, filled with eclectic art and souvenirs from her travels. But the real showstopper? The view from the balcony, looking out over the port and Split’s Old Town.






We picked up a few groceries at the local market and had a laid-back dinner on the balcony. Just us, some cheese and crackers, a bottle of wine, and a front-row seat for the sunset.
Day 2: Old Town… and Cats!
We started our first full day in Split with a walk to a nearby bakery for pastries and cappuccinos. The neighborhood was lovely, and had cats, which automatically made it better. Fueled by sugar and caffeine, we headed to Old Town.



We entered through the tunnel of Diocletian’s Palace, another Game of Thrones filming location and UNESCO World Heritage site. Old Town feels like a fairy tale, if fairy tales featured cobblestone alleys, ancient Roman ruins, apartments with ornate doors, and boutiques tucked into crumbling walls.









We wandered until lunchtime, when the sun made it very clear that it was time to get indoors. It was ridiculously hot.









Thankfully, Shawn found a tiny pub with stone walls that kept the small interior with only a handful of tables cool. This is where we had the most unexpectedly amazing roasted eggplant. I'm not even an eggplant person, and this one nearly brought me to tears. I strongly considered writing the chef a love letter.


After lunch, we returned to the apartment for some much-needed air conditioning and a siesta, stopping to greet a few locals along the way.



Once the sun started to set, we headed back to the ocean-front plaza for cocktails. It was buzzing with tourists and locals at all the little cafes surrounding the main square. We sipped, people-watched, and soaked it all in.


We had dinner at Focaccina, the Instagram-famous sandwich shop where we probably raised the average customer age by a couple of decades. We grabbed our sandwiches to go and ate on the balcony, watching the ferry boats pulling into port.


Day 3: Marinas, Margaritas, & Melting
We started the day with a walk to the neighborhood beach, where the older locals go for a brisk morning swim.

Today’s breakfast mission: Burek. This flaky Balkan pastry comes stuffed with meat or cheese. We chose cheese (the rope looking pastry on the bottom shelf.) It was rich, satisfying, and gave us just enough energy to walk along the marina and gawk at yachts we'll never own.
Also, those amazing loaves of freshly baked bread in the photo? They only cost about $1 each. I love European bakeries.



Split, by the way, is packed with beautiful buildings and even more beautiful people. Tall, tan people who look like they’re on their way to a Vogue shoot. I felt like a melted candle in comparison. Shawn, with his height advantage, fit right in.




For lunch, we took a sweaty 20-minute walk to a modern spot called Sexy Cow. We ordered ice cold, spicy margaritas that had a dry ice bubble effect, and enjoyed delicious wraps and truffle fries.
Back at the apartment, we surrendered once again to the air conditioning. The heat had officially declared itself the winner.


That evening, we returned to the plaza for one last round of cocktails. Our waiter remembered us and surprised us with a round of drinks on the house. The hospitality here was next level.


We wrapped up our final night with dinner at Bokeria. The interior was sleek, our upstairs table had a great view, and the other diners, mostly trust fund twenty-somethings lamenting the "exhausting" club scene, provided better entertainment than the menu. The food was fine. The people-watching was five-star.
I ordered a lemon drop, assuming it was a universal cocktail. The bartender had never heard of it, but insisted on looking it up and making it anyway. It was fantastic.


One last twilight stroll through Old Town. We soaked up every charming corner before heading back for the night.

Bonus Morning: Cat + Statue = Perfection
Before heading to the airport, we made one final trip into town for cappuccino and a pastry, with one very important mission: finding a cat posing dramatically on a statue.
Mission accomplished:
Then it was off to the airport for our flight to Frankfurt, slightly sunburned, fully caffeinated, and completely in love with Split.



Gorgeous! I'm adding Croatia to my bucket list 💕